The Power of the Collective Voice
We've all heard the old adage, “If a tree falls in the woods and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?” Well, what if it were two trees, or five? Do ten trees make a sound? In the case of the denim industry, how many trees would have to fall before they become impossible to ignore?
Challenges in the Denim Industry
It may not have been until the 1960s that denim was considered “fashion” but the sturdy textile has been a staple for centuries. However, more recently, the industry has begun to face challenges, particularly regarding commercial compliance and ethical purchasing practices. Unethical behaviors such as abrupt order cancellations by brands, retailers, and importers (BRIs) have jeopardized the livelihoods of both manufacturers and their workers. These cancellations often leave manufacturers with unsold inventory and unpaid labor costs, creating a ripple effect of financial instability and social injustice. The COVID-19 pandemic exacerbated these issues, with many BRIs canceling orders to mitigate their own financial losses, leaving suppliers to bear the brunt of the costs.
Manufacturers and suppliers repeatedly find themselves at a disadvantage against BRIs. When issues arise, they can take anywhere from months to years to resolve. Without legal recourse or faster legal solutions, the power imbalance leaves complaints and grievances from individual voices unheard, resembling a single tree falling in an empty forest.
The lack of standardized commercial compliance agreements accompanied by an oversaturated manufacturing market means the industry’s challenges remain merely whispers, perpetuating a cycle of exploitation and non-compliance.
A Turning Point
The pandemic was a turning point for many organizations that had fought for a more equitable fashion industry. As workers and orders were left unpaid in the millions, organizations such as the Transformers Foundation were formed and sought to better understand the extent of the predicament and how to overcome it. The Ethical Denim Council (EDC) was a program born from the foundation’s extensive research into the problems within the denim industry.
The idea behind the EDC was to create a mechanism that brings visibility to business practices while closing the power gap between BRIs and suppliers, amplifying the voices of those one or two trees, and creating a more just and equitable denim industry.
By putting a larger spotlight on the unethical behavior and purchasing practices of specific players in the industry, the whispers become impossible to ignore.
A Unified Voice
Part of the Ethical Denim Council’s goal is to unite various organizations around the world behind its mission while collaborating with like-minded entities. This approach emphasizes the importance of collective strength in addressing industry challenges.
When denim mills and suppliers are joined by NGOs, labor unions, manufacturing associations, and academic think tanks, a large voice is created that carries more weight. By banding together, the denim industry can enforce stricter compliance measures, ensuring that brands, retailers, and importers honor their commitments and maintain ethical standards. Solidarity among manufacturers and suppliers can also foster a more transparent and fair industry, where the rights of all parties are respected.
Remake’s Pay Up campaigns are a prime example of the power solidarity and coalitions can hold. Several like-minded organizations such as Clean Clothes Campaign, United Students Against Sweatshops, and the Worker Rights Consortium joined forces in 2020 to push brands into paying billions owed to garment factories. The “global coalition of garment workers, labor unions, NGOs and civil society groups, and fashion activists” managed to recover over $22 billion from 25 brands. In 2023 they joined forces with 80 organizations for a new campaign.
In this spirit, the EDC has added mill workers to our polling efforts. The intent is to gather insight into how much they know about the contracts between the brands, how it affects them, and how they feel about it. Polling has been completed in Bangladesh with 1000 responses and will be moving into Pakistan soon. A report on the findings will be out later this year.
The goal is for all of these voices to create a picture of necessary change. Establishing industry-wide guidelines and codes of conduct is not just the first step but the gateway to change. Standards such as the Eight Ethical Principles and the Responsible Contracting Project’s Buyer Code serve as a benchmark for ethical behavior, ensuring that all stakeholders are aware of their responsibilities and the consequences of non-compliance. Collective action would not only bring about immediate change but could pave the way for a more sustainable and ethical future for the denim industry and fashion as a whole.
When individual voices combine into a unified chorus, they can break through barriers of indifference and compel even the most powerful entities to listen and act.
So, when faced with the question, "If a tree falls in the woods and no one is around to hear it, does it make a sound?", the industry can show that the answer lies in numbers. One tree may fall silently, but a forest of voices will always make a sound that cannot be ignored.
Sharmon Lebby is a nonprofit consultant focused on collaborating with social and environmental impact organizations to bring their visions to life. A former writer for Treehugger and ESJ and the Founding President of the Ethical Network of San Antonio, Sharmon enjoys amplifying small businesses and connecting them with the resources they need to grow and thrive. Her interest and expertise lie in the intersections of environmentalism, fashion, and under-appreciated communities.